DIY Calendula Infused Oil
Calendula oil is such a simple and beautiful DIY project, and often the first one people will try when starting out with herbal skincare- myself included!
Over the years I've learnt that a few little details can make a big difference in the end result, especially if you want a rich, golden oil that actually captures the soothing and conditioning essence of the flower.
Petals or flowers?
Calendula petals are beautiful. They give that gorgeous golden colour and are usually easy to find in heath food shops, but they are only one part of the flower.
The sticky, resin-rich flower heads contain the potent anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial compounds calendula is famous for, while the petals offer gentle antioxidant (carotenoid and flavonoid) support.
Quality...
When selecting your dried calendula flowers, use your senses to determine quality and vitality. Sadly, what's often available in stores are dull and rather sad looking petals that are unlikely to infuse much goodness into your oil.
Look, smell and feel for a vibrant colour, strong aroma and crispy petals.
Dull, limp and lifeless flowers will be obvious after you've witnessed the real deal.
I use organic calendula flowers which are grown in NSW and gently dried in the shade to protect their therapeutic properties. You can try them here.
If you're harvesting calendula from your garden for this infusion, make sure you leave enough time for the flower to fully dry. The petals will dry faster, but the whole flower will need a few weeks to ensure no moisture remains (which will cause your infusion to spoil).
To grind or leave whole?
Leaving the flowers whole gives you a cleaner, slower infusion.
Grinding them increases the surface area, meaning the oil has more contact with the plant material, leading to a stronger infusion.
I personally prefer to lightly grind the flowers first for this reason. However, this can result in a more cloudy looking oil because some of the plant powders can make their way through the straining process.
To get the best of both worlds, use a coffee filter to strain your infusion rather than a cheesecloth. This is a very slow process so if you're a bit impatient, keep the flowers whole or if you don't mind some sediment- use a cloth.
Choosing the right carrier oil
The carrier oil is important as it impacts the feel, shelf life, colour and aroma.
Some oils are also more heat sensitive than others, so please choose carefully if you're planning to use the double boiler or sunny windowsill method.
Oils like sunflower, safflower, hemp and flaxseed oxidise more quickly when exposed to heat and light.
For warm infusion methods, choose heat stable oils like macadamia, jojoba and olive.
As for shelf-life, some oils do better than others. You can add vitamin E to your infusion to slow oxidation, however if you don't have vitamin E or don't plan to add any, use oils that are both heat stable and known to have a longer shelf life such as jojoba and macadamia. Thankfully, these two oils are wonderful all-rounders and support a wide variety of skin conditions.
Here is a comprehensive guide I refer to often if you want to learn more.
Three ways to infuse
Your infusion method choice will depend on how much time you have, which oil you’re using and whether you prefer a slow herbal process or a quicker result.
The slow cupboard method
This is the gentlest option and my personal favourite.
Prep a glass jar by ensuring it's completely dry then rub the inside and the inner lid with an alcohol wipe. Fill it about halfway with dried calendula flowers (whole or ground), then cover with oil until the flowers are fully submerged, then add a bit more oil on top. Tighten the lid, label the jar with the date, and place it in a cool, dark cupboard for 4 to 6 weeks, giving it a gentle shake every few days.
The sunny windowsill method
This dreamy version uses the warmth of the sun to help the infusion along, but light and heat can age oils faster.
As mentioned already, choose your oil wisely for this method. Follow the instructions above, then place the jar somewhere warm but not scorching hot. A bright windowsill is fine, just avoid anywhere that gets intense midday heat.
Infuse for around 2 to 4 weeks, shaking gently every few days.
The double boiler method
This is the quickest method and is perfect if you want your infusion ready asap.
Place your calendula and a heat-stable oil in a heatproof bowl, then sit that over a saucepan with a few centimetres of water. Warm on very, very low heat for 2 to 4 hours. The oil should feel warm, not hot. Don’t let it simmer aggressively as you do not want to cook your calendula! You may have to remove the bowl from time to time to let excess heat escape.
Straining + Storage
When your gorgeous golden oil is ready, you can strain it through a fine mesh sieve lined with muslin, cheesecloth or a clean cotton cloth. Let it drip through slowly, then gently squeeze out the remaining oil.
If you want a more refined, clear oil that will be completely free of any sediment, you'll need to use a coffee filter paper instead. This is a slower process so patience is also required ;)
If you're using sensitive oils, now is the time to add 0.5-1% of vitamin E (you'll need to weigh the finished oil to calculate this correctly).
Pour the finished infusion into a clean, dry glass bottle or jar.
Label your special creation with the herb, oil and date and store in a cool, dark place.
The shelf life will vary depending on which oil you've used.
Herbal oils are generally most potent within the first 6 months of straining, so I recommend making smaller batches and using them quickly as opposed to a larger batch that you keep for a long time.
This soothing and nurturing infusion can be used on the face and body as well as the hair and scalp.
I hope you enjoy! Please feel free to post any questions below :)
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